Have a look at this great video, it is Bob McTavish discussing design features of one of his surfboards, the 2008 Fireball. I think it is a really great video as it shows how a shaper is thinking about performance, right throughout the entire shape of the longboard. It is not a slip shod effort designing a great surfboard, it takes deliberate and precise planning and the flawless execution of that plan. When it all comes together though, just as is the case with this Fireball, a great machine for riding the waves is the result.
This is why I think all people who are serious about surfing should at least once, treat themselves to a custom shaped surfboard. When you have a professional talking to you about what you want to achieve with your surfing, who knows how every element of the surfboard responds in the water, they can craft something that will really improve your performance. So if you are considering this instead of buying another board from a shop, don’t hesitate, find a shaper and have him design a surfboard just for you. You will never regret the decision, even if it does cost a little more.